I found breeding to be extremely simple. Most recommend breeding at 4-5 years with a female no less than six feet in length. I was successful breeding a three year old female just at six feet. Females will reach full size easier with the potential of larger clutches if breeding is delayed. When I decide to breed, I begin to feed the female often. After a month of heavy feeding I pair them up three days after their last feed.

FWC Breeding 1

I separate them next day and give them a few days apart after offering a small meal. I repeat this process until I either see at least two locks or no interest from male. I feel this combo of frequent feeding and repeat paring leads to larger and more fertile clutches.

FWC Breeding 2

Eggs It is pretty easy to know when your falsie is about to drop eggs; she will be very thick the lower 1/3 of her body. Her belly scales will be distended and she may be reluctant to allow you to pick her up. After her prelay shed you’ll have approximately 15 days to figure out what ya need to do. I like to offer my girls one last meal after the prelay shed. They’ll typically go off food a week or so after the prelay shed so I like to offer them one more meal to help get them through. At this time I’ll get my mommas comfortable. I like to add a large amount of sphagnum moss to her enclosure. She’ll typical lay her eggs in the moss which keeps them fairly clean and easy to remove. Once she’s completed laying her eggs, I set up my incubating container.

FWC Breeding 3

For a medium I prefer perlite as I feel it has better air flow and less susceptible to mold. I add water to the perlite to the recommended consistency. You’ll want the perlite to clump together when squeezed, but not dripping wet. I remove the eggs from the enclosure and wipe away any substrate with a damp paper towel if necessary. I attempt to keep the eggs in the orientation I discovered them in while placing them in the perlite. I then use a small but powerful flashlight to candle the eggs. I look for the embryo and make sure it’s facing up. I have my incubator already running and holding temperature before placing the eggs inside. I like to incubate the eggs at 80-82 the first month to get the babies formed, then I bump it up a degree or two. High incubation temps are known to cause kinks and other deformities.

FWC Breeding 5

With this method I’ll have eggs hatching between 65 and 75 days. I’ve had 100% hatch rate with this method so far with no deformities.

FWC Breeding 7

Once babies have hatched I like to separate them after a couple days. I use a rack that holds plastic shoeboxes for containing the babies.


Kyle Wilson